Sophea Bailey

A collection of work

Inserting canvas

For my make this term I used a relatively heavy weight chest canvas and a body canvas. I then cut and pad stitched them to melton and the body of the coat.

It wasn’t until I visited a tailors workshop that I discovered that you could buy fusible canvas. I imagine fusible canvas is much more hard wearing than normal fusibles and so for a quick make this would be appropriate. I wonder if like fusible stay tape you can just iron it on or whether it requires some stitching. I guess that would defeat the object of it being fusible but having seen the finish of pad stitch the whole chest canvas, I am definitely in favour of that method!

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Chesterfield blocks

I have used these patterns provided by my tutor who specialises in tailoring in order to create my blocks. I haven’t drafted a sleeve pattern like this one here but I liked the shape t produced. When put together it created really nice sleek lines without the need to adapt the block. I have used scales before but this was the first time I had done it with guidance. I did not find it all that challenging.

Mamma Mia coat

Having visited theatrical tailor Kathy Pederson, she gave me this pink coat that she made initially for Mamma Mia the musical but was scrapped for whatever reason. She  allowed me to deconstruct it to get a greater understanding of how a tailored jacket is made. It has been a great way of looking at how my coat should be made, allowing me to use it as a first hand piece of research where I can get rough measurements and how each layer is applied. It means I do not have to rely on my tutor as much.

This term

Following on from last terms shenanigans, I am making a men’s Chesterfield overcoat. It will be made for the period of 1919, with the profile in mind of a character from the BBC series Peaky Blinders. Below are some of the images I will be using to dictate my design.

Mills in England

As part of my research, it is important to look at the mill nude try, specifically wool. Now it is fair to say that I don’t have great knowledge on the subject but it is important to get an understand of how fabrics are crafted, before I can write about them or use them in the best way.

Mills in England are becoming a bit of a dying trade. Most fabrics are now woven abroad and the amount of finishers in England has also declined. From what I can gather, a lot of this is down to the expense in England; it is cheaper to produce abroad.

I received a brochure from John Arbon Textiles. Below are some pages from the brochure which explains a bit about their craft. I will hopefully be visiting Londom Cloth Company and mills based in Leeds to get a fairer idea of the industry.

‘Everyday fashions of the 20’s’ book research

Uniform nook research

‘Everyday fashions of the thirties’ essay research

‘Men’s fashion illustrations’ photo research for my essay

Huntsman’s Fallen Heroes

Below is a link to Huntsman’s Fallen Heroes page which is of some relevance to the essay I am currently writing. It discusses tailoring and the implications war has had on society and on tailoring, even today. It is great to see that such a well known company has made and continues to make such great contributions.